![]() ![]() You may aim for 2 gallon in the fermenter, but how much actually made it into the vessel? While this may seem onerous at times, taking and recording your gravity and volumes throughout your process will make your efforts more predictable in the long run. This may be why your overall efficiency is not what your estimate in BeerSmith is set to be. When you look at efficiency it should always be Gravity and Volume at each step. It is more a matter of effect on the fermentability of the wort produced.įurther, your achievement of 1.070 versus a calculated 1.068 indicates that you have done a good job in your equipment profile, so I would not jump to any changes until several brews demonstrate that you are consistently higher than the estimated target. Within this range, the influence on efficiency is pretty minimal. On another note, the prime range for mash temperatures is from 148F to 158F. So, in your description of your process, was the Mash Efficiency calculated by BeerSmith at 70% or the Brew House Efficiency? This is the value that you need to enter into your equipment profile and it will control the amount of sugar from the mash and into the fermenter. When you fill out the numbers for OG reading and fermenter volume, you are looking at the Brew House Efficiency calculations.īeerSmith uses the Brew House Efficiency for its calculations. When you enter in the post mash gravity and volume, you are looking at the Mash Efficiency calculations in BeerSmith. BeerSmith uses two different efficiency numbers: Brew House Efficiency, which is the amount of sugars from the grain bill which end up in the fermenter and Mash Efficiency, which is the amount of sugars which are collected from the mashing process. ![]() Sorry for the long story, but I know the less variables I have when brewing, the better I should be able make my beer.Let's make sure that we are looking at the same efficiency numbers. ![]() The awesome mistake of a brew, too much went wrong to ever figure that one out. I’ve had other brews that turned out bad, but I could always figure out where or what I messed up. I don’t know, all I know is Ive never made another brew that compares to that brew. Was it that I collected all the wort from a single running with no sparge at all. Was it the low mash temp that made the brew. I share my homebrew with anyone that will try it, but not that batch, only my closest friends got to try it and only a small amount. It was an american amber ale kit with a few diferent added grains. ![]() I will never be able to make that beer again other than knowing the ingredients I used. Rather than toss it out and start fresh, I finished it out, the Og was in the predicted range, and the finished beer was full of flavor, body, a nice thick head that looked like tan whipped cream, and was very drinkable despite the high alcohol content. Well I forgot to close the valve and filled my mash tun to capacity with water/grain. After I add my strike water and am happy with the mash temp, I refill my strike water kettle to heat it for the sparge. The best beer I ever made was a complete and total screw up during the mash process. I seem to come in under temp quite a bit, but about half the times I have, the finished product seemed better when leaving the temp where it was at as opposed to adding water to bring the temp up. I am going to add another burner to my stand and use my extra 30qt kettle for my mash tun so I am able to control my temps and and my volumes better. ![]()
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